por cpl em 21/05/12, atualizado em 21/08/11

Freios: Instalando novo reparo da pinça de freio

(Brakes: Caliper Rebuild, Seal Repair Kit Install)

Required tools:
What you need:
Jack
Jack Stands
Paper Towels
Zip Ties or Wire Coat Hanger
Scrap Cardboard
Nitrile Gloves
Caliper Seal Kit (Honda 01463-ST7-000) x 1 per wheel
Brake Caliper Lube
14mm socket
12mm socket
Socket Wrench
Torque Wrench
Breaker Bar (optional)
Blow Gun (optional)
Scrap wood or rag (optional)
Brake Fluid
Funnel
Clear Tubing
Empty Bottle
10mm Wrench


The Seal Kit contains one piston seal (lower right), one piston boot (upper right), two pin boots, two crush washers, a packet of silicone lubricant (clear) and a packet of a lubricant for the sliders (orange). I only needed to replace the boot and the seal, so I didn't use the pin boots or the packet of orange lubricant.



The lubricant packets aren't well marked so I did a little research to make sure I was using the right stuff. The orange packet contains labeling indicating it is for the sliders and if you look up Shin Etsu KS 62M you will find that it is a silicone lubricant/sealant.

First loosen the lugs on the wheel that you will be working on and jack up the car and secure it with the jack stands. Remove the wheel and place some scrap cardboard under the brake caliper. It also helps to turn the steering wheel all the way in the direction of the wheel you will be working on.

Get your zip-tie / wire coat hanger and paper towels ready. If you are using a coat hanger, bend it up so that you can hang it off of the spring or the upper control arm and get it in place.

Put on the Nitrile gloves. Break the 14mm banjo bolt loose. It is the middle bolt that connects to the brake line in the image below. As soon as you loosen this bolt brake fluid will start leaking. Have a paper towel ready below the bolt to stop brake fluid from running down your caliper, and have another one ready to wrap the end of the hose in.


Wrap the end of the brake line in paper towels and tie it out of the way using your zip tie or the wire coat hanger as shown below making sure not to drip brake fluid on the CV joint or any painted surfaces. The brake line will leak continuously so you will either want to plug it with something, or to keep an eye on it while you work to make sure that your reservoir doesn't empty and that fluid doesn't start dripping onto the ground or your car.


Next remove the two 12mm bolt holding the caliper onto the sliders. These are the bolts at the top and bottom of the caliper near the pin boots. When you remove the caliper, the remaining brake fluid will likely poor out, have a towel ready to place over the hole where the banjo bolt was. Next, empty all of the fluid out of the caliper by turning it on its back and draining it onto a towel. This will make things less messy in the next step.


Clean the gunk off around the piston to prevent getting any dirt in the caliper once it is disassembled. Here you can see the torn boot.


Place a block of wood or a rag across form the piston in the caliper. Using the blow gun at low pressure (like 30PSI), place the blow gun over the hole where the banjo bolt was and give it a couple short blasts. Keep your hand away from the piston.


The piston will pop right out.


If you don't have a blow gun, try using something long and skinny to press the piston out from the back through the hole in the caliper. A screw driver would work, but I would use something plastic or wooden to prevent scratching of the piston.
Once the piston is out, wipe it down and get all of the grease and grime off. set the piston aside.
Using a small screwdriver, carefully pry the piston seal out of its groove. Be careful not to damage the side of the cylinder.


Wipe down the inside of the cylinder to remove any dirty fluid that remains and any debris that has collected in the cylinder.
Get the clear packet of lubricant that came with the kit.


Clean your gloves off and squeeze some of the silicone lubricant onto your index finger and thumb. Wipe a good coating of the lubricant all over the piston seal. Install the piston seal into the second groove in the cylinder making sure not to get any dirt on the seal or in the cylinder.


Using the brake caliper lube, lube up the inside and edges of the piston boot.



Lube up the piston and the inside of the cylinder with fresh brake fluid.


Now this is where my opinion differs from the Helms a little. The Helms manual will tell you to install the piston boot in the caliper, and then install the piston into the cylinder. I tried this and there is no way that it will work. The opening in the piston boot is significantly smaller than the diameter of the piston, and trying to push the piston through the hole will only result on a torn boot and another $25 down the drain. I know, I ruined a brand new boot trying to push the piston in.

Here is what I did. Set the piston on a table with the open side down. Grasp the piston boot with your fingers and pull the inner opening apart as you slide it over the piston. Make sure that you have the piston boot facing the right way when you slide it onto the piston.



once the boot is around the piston, slide it up far enough that it won't pop off the end of the piston, but not all the way up. Next, grab the the boot by the outside edge and unfold it as it would unfold under normal use. once the boot is unfolded, the inside edge should still be stuck to the piston, but the outside edge will now be extended above the end of the piston. By extending the outer edge of the boot past the end of the piston, you will be able to fit the boot into the caliper.



Take the piston and boot assembly and line it up with the cylinder in the caliper. While holding the piston, use your other hand to work the outside edge of the boot into the groove in the cylinder. This will take a while and you need to make sure that you get the boot into the groove all the way around. Here you can see the beginning of the process.



once the boot is installed into the groove in the cylinder, push the piston into the cylinder as well.

Push the piston all the way in and inspect the piston boot for any lumpiness. A lump indicates that the boot isn't properly seated in the groove. If you have lumps, simply use the blow gun to pop the piston back out and reseat the piston boot.

If anyone else knows the right way to do this, please let me know.



Wipe down any grease that you got on the caliper or piston to keep dirt from sticking.

Install the caliper on the car by lining up the top pin and the upper hole in the caliper and finger tighten the bolt. Swing the caliper down over the pads being careful not to tear the boot on the pads. Insert and tighten the bolt into the other slider. Torque the 10mm bolts to 23 foot pounds or 31 Newton meters for 94-97 models and to 36 pound feet or 49 Newton meters for 98-01 models. Torque these bolts before installing the brake line as the brake line is in the way of the upper bolt.

Replace the washers on the brake line and install the brake line into the caliper using the bolt removed earlier. Tighten the bolt to 25 pound feet or 34 Newton Meters.



Top off your brake fluid reservoir and bleed the brake you were working on using the procedure from the brake bleeding article @ http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=417.
Keep in mind that there may be a lot of air in the line and caliper, so topping off your fluid before pumping up pressure in the system will prevent you from sucking air into the system at the reservoir.

I only bled the wheel I was working on and the pedal felt stiff so I opted not to bleed the entire system.

If you spilled brake fluid on anything rubber or painted, now would be a good time to wipe up the spills and rinse off the parts that were spilled on.


source: http://www.team-integra.net/forum/18-suspension-brakes/126350-g3-front-caliper-rebuild-how.html

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